Art Universe

print advantage, platinum, from digital negatives – The Concise Guide – Part 3 / 7

Part 3 / 7 – Materials.

Digital negatives:
OHP film Pictorico ……………………………………….. Bostick …… Sullivan / Other

Darkroom / Printing:
Developer …………………………………………. ………….. chemical supplier and DIY
Palladium and platinum ……………………………… Crafts Chems. B & S and DIY
Ferric oxalate ………………………………………… Crafts Chems ………. B & S and DIY
Na2 …………………………………………. …………………. Bostick & Sullivan
Citric acid ………………………………………… . …………. chemical supplier and DIY
Blotting Paper ………………………………………… art workshop ………

Duties:
Watercolors (in tubes rather than small cubes) art shop ..

Installation:
Acid-free band ……………………………………….. ……… Framing equipment. Provider
Acid-free watercolor paper …………………………………. Art Shop
Cotton museum board assembly ………………………………. Framing equipment. Provider

Now, things start to get interesting because we will prepare our own chemicals. Sure, you can buy all chemicals pre-mixed, but it would be a waste of money, and if you're printing in platinum for a profit is not the way forward. For example, the developer that I use and recommend is potassium oxalate, dust which costs $ 35 for 1 kg of B & S, which is about four liters of solution. From The promoter does not strip you may think a gallon can go a long way, it is not true. Each session, I am to restore 100 to 200 ml of developer. My advice is to make the mixture of potassium oxalate acid oxalic acid and potassium carbonate can be purchased in bulk. If you call a chemical company (we have many, even here, in a small country such as Ireland) discovers that 20 kg bag costs very little oxalic acid, including potassium carbonate. Unfortunately, I forgot the cost because I bought my last lot of chemicals (20 kg) for six years and still have a lot in the coming years. As mentioned it was cheap, $ 100 / $ 150 for supplies, that indeed two bags I recommend a broker, citric acid. From this it needs a lot, and since B & S, which costs $ 12 for 1 kg, once again, I recommend a chemical company that will provide a 20 kg bag of probably about the same price. Since all these chemicals come in powder form, if properly stored, never go wrong. I think, however, image providers, as well as B & S can offer bulk chemicals, but I would do with some companies chemical products anyway. Please note that suppliers such as B & S and helped train many photographers to participate in alternative processes, they also sponsor forums etc. So if you can buy from them instead of non-photographic. I personally can not afford to import U.S. and pay a premium so it is, in fact, excellent service and support, including B & S and others are well known. Otherwise, you can also join a group of users, such as ASPP where they can participate in group purchasing to save money, especially in purchasing metals. Fortunately, ferric oxalate and Na2 are not expensive (Na2 is really expensive but a bottle of 20% solution will last ages.) Something I will not, however, is the purchase of these machines with a bit of everything, including paper, just get started – I think a waste of money.

Before the procedure, a word of warning: the chemicals used are highly Platinum toxic (more toxic than printing money) so be careful and if you follow the path, I recommend the purchase of shares of any of oxalic acid, etc, if you please, keep in a dry place and protected and away from children and pets.

How to make potassium oxalate:
Use a large bucket (10 liters) of plastic. Sign up with a marker of the level of 5 liters. Pour into a gallon of tap water. 900gr potassium carbonate is completely dissolved. Dissolve (Slowly!) 800 g of oxalic acid. This can be dangerous, will be a lot of bubbles and become hot. Use a mask, gloves and goggles and keep in a well ventilated area. When finished, more than 5 liters. Finally add another 150 g of oxalic acid. The first time you use the workaround does not expect large results, what I mean is that it is a developer of new brands, and eventually become old, darker and more like a fine wine. You can inject with a syringe palladium if you want to make it richer. Always prepare a bottle of 10 liters of solution I use to fill my magnum normal work, which is now several years old. Note: If you leave the solution in the tank that is a long period of time 24 or more hours it starts to oxidize and turn green, so please avoid that. Also, after some time, probably in the bottom of the bottle of working solution of green crystals, which are easy to remove simply pour into the empty bottle tray citric acid solution used and tremors.

The customs agent is mixed if necessary, only three tablespoons coffee in 1.5 liters of water. I use three trays of 1.5 liters each and every 3-4 in order to discard the first impressions and make a new one. The latter group should be always clear.

For the coating solutions, follow these steps:
Palladium: Use a 100 ml bottle. Prepare 110ml of hot water (preferably distilled even if I use tap water). Fill 3 / 4 of the bottle with hot water, dissolve in the first 7g of salt and 10 g of palladium chloride. Pour the water left in B & S 110ml 100 ml bottles will accept. Stir until dissolved.

Platinum: I prepare only 50 ml. Only chloroplatinite Dissolve 10 g of potassium in 50 ml of water. Platinum and palladium are going wrong and, of course, are not sensitive to light so do not worry if you prepare a large number of them.

Ferric oxalate, I set 50 or 100 ml of this maximum, since it does not last long (which is in the dark). For 50ml, first 0.7gr of oxalic acid dissolved, then ferric oxalate 15g. Oxalic acid is not necessary, but keeps the solution for longer and prevents fogging. Be careful with these small amounts, because if you exceed, the result will show more contrast views and have no idea why. One of the things I feel like platinum, is that if you feel now, and then three years, you have to do the same feeling again, it is anyway, if they are compatible with the preparation of chemicals and procedures. I never managed to achieve this level of consistency with the money. Back to our sensitizer. Unfortunately, this solution requires a very stirring (which I recommend preparing 50 ml in a 100 ml bottle). I shook for a while and then I prepare a pot of boiling water, reduce cylinder temperature, the immersion in hot water for a while to stir again, etc. Leave the night and the next day if you see things in the bottom of the bottle, shake it all over again. ferric oxalate powder is talcum "in dust "a very unpleasant state of affairs babies and very toxic (and sensitive to light) so be careful. Use a mask, although small amounts of the mixture and clean area thereafter. Also, in my experience, SF is often the culprit when it comes to printing problems: low contrast, or spots, or blurred impressions, the first thing to do is mix a new bottle of TF of a new batch.

Na2 (chloroplatinate sodium). It is the contrast agent. He comes from B & S as 20% solution. Buy 10ml bottle that will last a lot since we hardly use. I am against contrast agents, in general, because it would ruin the impression. Our negatives are there and we will use only one or 2 drops of 2.5% Na2 to prevent fogging. You need three bottles of 25ml, with the following label : 10%, 5% and 2.5%. To the mixture 10% solution of a dropper full of 20% and water (obviously). For the solution of the mixture of 5% dropperful 20% and three drops of water. To the mixture solution of 2.5% a dropper full 20% and seven drops of water. Except for special situations poorly developed or not digital negatives so you will use most of the time by 2.5% and mix accordingly.

Part 4.7 review darkroom techniques.

About the Author

Luca Paradisi has been an internationally collected artist and fine art printmaker for many years. For more fine art photography inspiration you can visit his web site at www.artblackandwhite.com where he shows his work which includes landscapes, still life, abstracts, and architectural.

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